What Is Facing in Sewing 

What Is Facing in Sewing ? A facing is a crucial element in sewing that provides a clean, polished finish to the raw edges of a garment or sewn item. It’s essentially a piece of fabric that turns to the inside of the garment, creating a smooth transition from the exterior to the interior.

A study conducted by the Textile Research Journal in 2022 examined the impact of different interfacing types on facing performance. The research involved testing various interfacings with common facing fabrics to determine optimal pairings.

Facings are typically interfaced to add structure and help maintain the desired shape of the garment edge. 

What Is Facing in Sewing 

Understanding the role of facings and how to properly apply them is an essential skill for both novice and experienced sewers.

Purpose and Function

The primary purpose of a facing is to conceal raw edges and provide a professional finish to a garment. Without facings, the edges of fabrics would be visible and prone to fraying, detracting from the overall appearance and durability of the item. Facings also contribute to the garment’s structure, particularly in areas that require extra support or shaping.

Common areas where facings are used include:

1.Necklines (especially those without collars)

2.Armholes in sleeveless garments

3.Waistlines without waistbands

4.Openings such as plackets or slits

5.Hems of skirts or dresses

When working with a commercial pattern, the pattern instructions serve as the primary guide for assembling and attaching facings. Typically, facing pieces are first sewn together separately and then attached to the main garment to finish the raw edges.

Types of Facings

There are several types of facings used in sewing, each suited to different garment styles and construction methods:

Shaped Facings: These are cut to match the exact shape of the garment edge they will finish. They’re commonly used for necklines and armholes.

Extended Facings: These are facings that are cut as part of the main garment piece, rather than as separate pieces. They’re often used in center front openings or for finishing the edges of sleeveless tops.

Bias Facings: Made from bias-cut strips of fabric, these facings are excellent for curved edges as they can easily conform to shapes.

All-in-One Facings: These combine multiple facing areas (such as neckline and armholes) into a single piece, reducing bulk at seam intersections.

Materials and Interfacing

Facings are typically cut from the same fabric as the main garment to ensure color matching and consistent behavior during washing and wearing. However, in some cases, a complementary fabric may be used for decorative purposes or to reduce bulk.

Interfacing plays a crucial role in facing construction. It adds body and structure to the facing, helping it maintain its shape and prevent it from rolling to the outside of the garment. The choice of interfacing depends on the weight and drape of the main fabric:

  • Lightweight fabrics may require a soft, lightweight fusible interfacing.
  • Medium-weight fabrics often work well with a medium-weight fusible interfacing.
  • Heavier fabrics might need a sturdy, non-fusible interfacing or even an additional layer of the main fabric as interfacing.

Selecting the appropriate interfacing is crucial for achieving the desired look and feel of the finished garment.

Construction Techniques

The process of attaching a facing involves several key steps:

Preparation: Interface the facing pieces according to the pattern instructions.

Assembly: Sew the facing pieces together if they consist of multiple parts.

Attachment: Pin the facing to the garment, right sides together, aligning notches and seams. Sew along the seam line.

Grading and Clipping: Trim the seam allowances to different widths (grading) and clip curves to reduce bulk and allow the facing to lay flat when turned.

Understitching: Sew a line of stitching close to the seam on the facing side, catching the seam allowances. This helps prevent the facing from rolling to the outside of the garment.

Turning and Pressing: Turn the facing to the inside of the garment and press carefully, shaping the edge as needed.

Finishing the Inner Edge: The raw edge of the facing (the edge not attached to the garment) needs to be finished to prevent fraying. This can be done through various methods such as pinking, zig-zag stitching, or using a serger.

Securing: Tack or slip stitch the facing to seam allowances or other internal structures to keep it in place during wear.

Here you like Vintage Singer Sewing Machine Models

Common Challenges and Solutions

While facings are essential for a polished finish, they can present some challenges:

  1. Visibility: Facings should not be visible from the outside of the garment. Proper understitching and pressing can help prevent this issue.
  2. Bulkiness: Choose appropriate interfacing and grade seams to reduce bulk, especially at corners and intersections.
  3. Rolling: Facings that roll to the outside can be prevented through careful understitching and tacking at strategic points.
  4. Fraying: Always finish the raw edge of the facing to prevent fraying and extend the life of the garment.

Alternatives to Traditional Facings

In some cases, alternatives to traditional facings may be preferred:

Bias Binding: This method involves encasing the raw edge in a strip of bias-cut fabric. It’s often used for a cleaner finish on lightweight fabrics or when a visible edge treatment is desired.

Lined Edges: Some garments may be partially or fully lined, eliminating the need for separate facings.

Rolled Hems: For very lightweight fabrics, a narrow rolled hem can sometimes replace a facing, particularly on curved edges.

Care and Maintenance

Proper care of facings is essential for maintaining the garment’s appearance:

  1. When ironing, take care not to press the facing’s edge too sharply, which could cause it to show on the right side of the garment.
  2. Follow the care instructions for the main fabric, as facings are typically made from the same material.
  3. If tacking stitches come loose, re-secure the facing promptly to prevent it from shifting during wear or washing.

Conclusion

Facings are a fundamental element in garment construction, providing both functional and aesthetic benefits. Mastering the techniques of cutting, interfacing, and attaching facings will significantly enhance the quality and professional appearance of your sewing projects. 

Whether you’re working on a simple top or a complex dress, understanding the role of facings and how to execute them properly is key to achieving a polished, well-constructed garment.

With practice and attention to detail, you’ll find that facings can transform the look of your handmade items, elevating them from homemade to truly professional-looking pieces. 

The goal is for the facing to be an invisible yet integral part of the garment, providing structure and finish without drawing attention to itself. By mastering this essential sewing technique, you’ll be well on your way to creating beautiful, long-lasting garments that you’ll be proud to wear and share.