Darts sewing is a technique that involves folding and stitching fabric wedges, allowing the flat fabric to contour and shape around the body’s curves.
In simple terms, darts sewing are folded and tapered fabric sections that are stitched down, typically found in women’s clothing but also used in men’s trousers and jackets.
The primary purpose of dart sewing is to provide a better fit by shaping the fabric to the body’s contours, ensuring a flattering and comfortable garment.
Darts sewing are often seen at the bust, waist, and hip areas, but they can also be strategically placed on shoulders, elbows, and necklines to enhance the overall design.
The Anatomy of Darts Sewing
Every dart in sewing consists of two essential components: the point (or apex) and the legs. The legs are the widest part of the dart sewing, and they converge towards the point, creating a folded wedge of fabric. Sewists stitch from the wide end of the legs towards the apex, securing the dart sewing in place.
Types of Darts Sewing
- Standard Darts Sewing:
These are the most common and versatile darts sewing, often appearing as triangular shapes on pattern pieces. Standard dart sewing can be found at the bust, waist, or both, creating a fitted bodice.
- French Darts Sewing:
As the name suggests, these elongated darts sewing originate at the side seam near the waistline and extend towards the bust point, combining bust and waist darts sewing into one.
- Curved Darts Sewing:
Instead of straight lines, these darts sewing feature gentle curves, typically found in skirt or pant patterns to provide better contouring and shaping.
- Double-Ended Darts Sewing:
Also known as closed or fish-eyed darts sewing, these consist of two darts joined at their widest ends, with one point towards the bust and the other towards the waist, allowing for a fitted shape at both areas.
- Serged Darts Sewing:
For those with sergers, this method can speed up the darts sewing process, especially useful for knit garments that don’t press well.
- Dart Tucks Sewing:
Similar to standard dart sewing, but with open ends, creating a pleated appearance suitable for billowy pants and blouses.
- Converting Darts Sewing to Ease:
When you desire a more relaxed silhouette, converting darts sewing to ease can add shape while providing a looser fit, particularly beneficial for skirts and set-in sleeves.
Darts Sewing Method: Step By Step Guide
Sewing darts correctly is essential for achieving a professional-looking garment.
Step 1: Decoding Dart Markings
Before you begin, it’s crucial to understand the markings on your pattern piece. Darts are typically indicated by triangular or curved lines with a point at one end. This point, also known as the apex, is where the dart will be focused. The widest part of the lines represents the legs of the dart, which will be brought together during sewing.
Step 2: Preparing the Fabric
Start by transferring the dart markings onto your fabric using a fabric marker or tailor’s chalk. Ensure the markings are clear and precise, as this will guide you throughout the sewing process.
Step 3: Pinning with Precision
With the right sides of the fabric together, fold along the dart legs, aligning the marked lines precisely. Secure the folded layers with pins, placing them perpendicular to the dart legs, with the pin heads facing outward. This positioning allows for easy pin removal as you sew.
Step 4: Stitching the Dart
Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.0 mm or less. A shorter stitch length helps create a crisp, well-defined dart. Begin stitching from the wide end of the dart legs, securing the stitches with a reverse stitch or locking stitch at the beginning.
As you approach the apex, it’s essential to taper the stitching gradually. Mark a perpendicular line about 3/8 inch before the apex, and when you reach this line, shorten your stitch length to 1.0 mm. Angle your stitching line slightly towards the folded edge, sewing as close to the fold as possible without going off the fabric.
Step 5: Securing the Apex
Once you’ve reached the apex, leave long thread tails (at least 4 inches) and remove the fabric from the machine, pinching the fabric firmly to avoid puckering. Tie the thread tails together with a double knot, gently tugging until the knot just touches the fabric fold. Clip the excess thread tails close to the knot.
Step 6: Pressing for Perfection
Pressing is the key to achieving a crisp, professional-looking dart. Use a pressing ham or a tightly rolled towel to press the dart from the right side of the fabric. Apply light pressure with a dry iron, using a swirling motion to coax the fabric into the desired shape gradually.
For sheer or lightweight fabrics, you may optionally trim the seam allowances along the dart seam, leaving about 1/8 inch on each side. This will prevent the bulk from showing through the fabric.
Step 7: Admire Your Handiwork
After pressing, step back and admire your beautifully sewn dart! The fabric should gently curve and dome around the dart, creating a flattering shape without any unsightly dimples or puckering.
Additionally, pressing darts sewing is crucial for a crisp, neat appearance. Use a pressing ham or similar rounded surface to shape the dart sewing and coax the fabric into its intended form. A well-executed dart sewing should create a subtle, dome-like shape without any visible dimples or wrinkles.
The Verdict
Mastering darts sewing takes time and patience, but the rewards are endless – garments that flatter your figure, accentuate your curves and showcase your sewing prowess. So, embrace the wonderful world of darts sewing and elevate your sewing game to new heights!